Being treated differently in Nepal & being refused from Hindu temples

I thought I would share some of the negative experiences I had as a foreigner while travelling throughout Nepal last year.

I feel sharing my experiences may help other foreigners to understand certain behaviours before they travel to Nepal.

Even though  it’s common for many tourists to be overcharged and ripped off whilst travelling through Asia, I must admit it was pretty ludicrous in Nepal.

It first started on one of my first shopping trips to a scarf shop in Thamel.

The price the man gave me for a handmade shawl was around $30 AUD. I left the shop and told Rabindra the price outside.

Two minutes later Rabindra went in and the salesman offered it to Rabindra for $6 AUD. So I figured this is how it was going to roll in Nepal…but that wasn’t so bad.

This was virtually repeated during most of my 6-week trip to Nepal. I don’t mind paying extra to support small shop owners -and let’s face it our dollar is worth much more than the Nepali dollar- but it riled me up when I would have to wait and hide around a corner and get Rabindra to do the shopping for the stuff I wanted to buy.

It was also pretty ridiculous having to hide in a nearby shop or street when Rabindra or his brother were negotiating our taxi fare rate across Kathmandu. It seemed every single time they saw me the price would magically increase so to get a fair price I would have to hide somewhere away from the taxi, it was pretty stupid!

Another thing that annoyed me was the fact that entry prices to museums, parks etc had two prices- a local price and a foreigner price (which was usually 500% more than the local price).

Because I was travelling with locals, it was a bit different than if I was travelling with other tourists. We could go and pay the entry fee and it would end in a big argument with the guards because Rabindra tried to argue I was a local- even with my red hair and fair skin obvious to everyone!

The arguing was not all about money. It was a matter of principle. In fact, it was about equality.

Rabindra would say: “mero budi nepali ho,” “wahaako nepali passport ho” roughly translated to “my wife is a nepali”, “she has a nepali passport.”

The guard would look at us and refuse and more arguing would ensue (even one time we got pulled into a special room – gasp-). Eventually they would let me in on the cheaper price, mostly because of Rabindra being so tall and towering over the top of them!

The common situation was us rocking up together with mummy, dad, rabindra, rabindra’s  bhai, didi, aunty and cousins all in tow and being told “that’s 50 rupees each – but hey—whose this foreigner? Let’s charge her 500 rupees!”

It’s pretty degrading to be singled out every single time and I got sick of preparing myself for another long argument of Rabindra v The Entry Guard at every new place we went.

It happened at the museum in Pokhara, the Mankanama Temple cable car, the elephant breeding park at Chitwan, the main entry of the Pashupatinath temple and a couple of other times.

But the next examples are even worse.

One day we went to Bhakatpur, and for those not familiar with Kathmandu- Bhakatpur is a public space in an outdoor area.

Yes, the area is heritage listed but it’s still a public place which has shops, temples and normal buildings around it.

To me, it was any normal, outdoor public place in Nepal. As we approached the entry in our vehicle, the guard saw everyone in our Jeep and thinking they were all Nepali, he started to wave us through without having to paying anything. But then he saw me in the back of the Jeep and asked the driver to stop.

He then told the driver it was free for all 7 Nepali people in our car but I would have to pay $30USD to enter a public place.

By this time, I’d really had enough. It was bad enough having to pay a different “foreigner” price at private companies but this was a public place and there was no cost for Nepalis.

For about 20 minutes my Nepali uncle (who is actually my friend’s father-in-law) argued with the guard about how discriminatory it was before I finally got let in at no charge.

He has travelled throughout Australia and other countries and said it was a disgrace that that happened to me.

But more discrimination was yet to come.

While I was in Nepal I rolled my ankle and had to get x-rays. Our friend went to a doctor’s practice in Pokhara and asked how much it was for an ankle x-ray to see if my foot was broken.

Our friend returned and told us the price and that he had booked an appointment for me in the afternoon.

When we went back that afternoon, the receptionist told me that an x-ray on my foot would be almost four times the price my friend was originally quoted.

Straight away we knew it was because they saw me and thought they would jack up the prices.

My friend had a boisterous argument with staff at the practice and roughly translated he said something like “She doesn’t have a f***** iron leg mate”!

Suffice to say it was a bit of a drama.

But actually my most negative experience that really made me upset was when I was refused from every Hindu temple I tried to enter.

It happened on three occasions- twice in Kathmandu and also in a very remote region of the Himalayas.

Before entering these temples, it never once crossed my mind or Rabindra’s mind, that I would not be allowed in.

When I went to enter the guard would tell us it was not their policy to allow foreigners (read: white people) inside temples.

I guess it’s because most of us ‘white’ people eat beef and cows are the Gods of Hindus. It may also be because many believe you are not a true Hindu unless you are born a Hindu, and you can’t convert to Hinduism.

It made me think about the many cross-cultural relationships in the world where one partner really respects and begins to follow their partner’s religion/culture. If you were serious about the religion and this happened to you, it could cause problems in your relationship.

It also made me think about the genuine ‘white’ Hindus who have converted to Hinduism and may practice the religion much stronger than other ‘brown-looking’ Nepalis.

What about if we have kids and they have white skin but they have been brought up as Hindu? I wonder what the guards would do then.

Anyway, the first time we went we didn’t want to make a scene so I just waited outside by myself while Rabindra and everyone else went inside. I wasn’t that affected by it.

The second time I could tell it really upset Rabindra. I was also sad and he only went inside for a minute or two before leaving and coming outside.

Rabindra confronted the guards on the second two times and made a very important point.

He said to the guards:  “look at my face. How do you know I am not a Nepali Christian or a Muslim. You can’t tell by the look of my face just like you can’t tell by the look of her face what she is. How do you know I don’t eat beef?”

I was really proud of Rabindra for sticking up for me and he made a really strong point to both guards.

Yes, they don’t accept foreigners but why? Is it because we eat beef? Or is it because we have white skin even though Hinduism may be all we’ve ever followed.

The policy of rejecting foreigners is extremely flawed in Nepal. While I can understand them not wanting non-believers in their temples, people who ‘eat’ their Gods, their policy is blatantly racist as you can’t tell by the look of someone if they are of one religious persuasion or another. For all they knew, Rabindra could have been a beef-eating Christian!

The funny thing is that as a result of all that rejection in Hindu temples, I was whole-heartily welcomed in every Buddhist temple. Rabindra now jokes he is a Buddhist not a Hindu as it is a much more accepting religion, and I have to agree.

So, there you go, I experienced plenty of discrimination whilst in Nepal.

I made some poignant points to Rabindra and my other Nepali friends which I hope is shared amongst other Nepalis in the world.

• In Australia, Asians or other “foreigners” would never be singled out and expected to pay a separate, inflated price simply because of the colour of their skin. In Australia this would be called blatant racism.
• Public places in Australia (except for events that are held in public places) do not have a guard at the front picking and choosing who looks “Australian” and who does not. I have never ever heard of someone letting in Aussies for free and charging a price for different looking “Asians” , once again a case of racism.
• In Australia, whilst shopping in most stores, tourists will generally pay the exact same price as a local. No bargaining over here.
• And lastly, even whilst I am certainly not a religious Catholic by any means, no Catholic church would ever refuse any man or woman from entering their church (unless they were dangerous, drunk, violent etc)- no matter whether their skin was black, white, blue or green.

No double standards in that regard.

Reminds me of this video

Everyone thinks I'm trolling simply because they don't have the guts to speak out the truth. Many things about Nepal sucks but people keep lying to themselves by saying Nepal is great. What is really great about Nepal?????

Nepali rules are full of double standards like the lady wrote in her blog. Why are white hindus not allowed in Pashupati? That does not make sense. Makes Nepal and Nepalis look stupid when there are fuqt up rules like that which does not make any sense.

Saw this comment on the blog:

Bokaman,

Your concern is legit and I agree our culture thrives off double standards, but the reason I mentioned why you were trolling in your previous thread was becuase you made a mockery of our accent and highlighted our english speaking skills in a derogatory fashion, especially when you are one of us and are doubtfully any better. You could have spoken about our religious hipocrisy or cultural fallacy or our impunity in catering to our nation's best interest but you didn't. Instread you chose to resort to a peurile attempt to garner attention by simply picking on our accents.

Nepal is not great by any means, at least I do not think so. If I did I would have taken the next flight back home instread of living here as a second citizen. We spend half the time squabbling about a god's birthplace who is long dead than worry about humans who are still alive,   but that reason alone doesn't mean we need to HATE Nepal, it is the country we were born in and we are Nepalese regardless whether we like it or not. If you support American culture or imitate Ameircans, be my guest, but then please refrain from venting frustrations like an unemployed youth from a ghetto, you can always choose to imitate Americans who are great leaders, couldn't you?

South Korea

"In Australia, Asians or other “foreigners” would never be singled out and expected to pay a separate, inflated price simply because of the colour of their skin. In Australia this would be called blatant racism."

A friend of Indian decent had told me how his brother was beaten one night in Sydney by a gang of racist Aussies; and you say "foreigners would never be singled out" in Australia? Until recently there were many private Golf clubs in US that didn't allow women to join the club. If you goto some of the southern states, you will feel very uncomfortable because of the looks you get. Just because a country is developed, it doesn't mean groupism/racism doesn't exist. Just because of that I am not going to say all of Australia and all of US is a racist/sexist country. It is unfair to single out Nepal as such.

I don't support banning foreigners for entry into Pashupatinath temple, but I do understand their point of view for doing so. First of all, you cannot use absolutel logic with religion. Even with that premise, Pashupatinath can give you some logic as to why it is done. Sure, a Nepali could've eaten beef but how is the guard going to find that out? In their eyes, there has to be a mechanism to filter this thing and they opted for an easier way. In today's context that method might have to go away, but to criticize it heavily singling out Nepal is not fair. Goto Mecca and complain why men and women are separated and why non muslim aren't allowed beyond certain point. Just because Hinduism is a tolerant religion, I see unfair bashing towards it.

As Behoove said, Nepal is not great by any means. We have many flaws, but some of the treatments we are receiving are also not fair. We have to change some of our ways, let's make these criticism a constructive one rather than just blatantly bashing our country. Not all of us are racist; even till this day, if you ask for a shelter and food to eat a Nepali (specially in villages) will happily extend their helping hands.

It's time to chip on this debate. 

I don't understand why foreigners are not let in HIndu temples.  I don't think the religious texts says so, but it is the people who misinterpret them. I only identify myself as a Hindu and I am not religious but just an observant while I am with my family, else I do not follow .
I feel bad for the lady for not being let in into the temple. It has nothing to do with racism. Also, you cannot blame the religion but the people who misinterpret it.  Yes unfortunately , third world countries are full of these kinds of rip off on tourists from overcharges to people beggin because you look different.

When a white person is seen in third world countries, they are thought to have lots of money and businessess try to rip them off by charging a lot, which is not fair.

Also, someone pointed out, these so called western white countries are not perfect either. I live in America and have travelled to big cities and smaller places, and people give you that hateful looks if you are brown, black  or middle eastern looking. You might look middle easterner and yet be a Hindu, and these ignorant people will think that you are something else. 
You will also get different service (poor)if you go to a pre dominantly white client restaurant .It even gets worse if you are a muslim with that beard and women wearing burkas. People will give you that hateful stare.

I am not trying to defend those Nepalese at temples to tourist gaurds what this white lady went through. There are flaws everywhere. It wasn't that long ago in South Africa where blacks were treated inhumanely in black majority country with minority whites. Look at what is happening these days there. 

Might sound off topic, but I will point out, here in the US, foreign students pay double the tuition that US resident or citizens pay. Should'nt they be charged equally instead?  From immigration fees to going to visit a monument, prices are ridiculosly high though it is equally charged.

But not letting into a temple is not a discrimination, but a mere ignorance and just a practice that people have carried out.  I can tell you that, if you marry a catholic girl and have a baby, and you want to baptize your child, they may refuse because of the dad being non catholic. Thus, flaws are everywhere...

"....We have been spoiled by their 'positive' perspective. But now things are changing now, and brace yourself for some in-dept criticism about us and our culture in the future."

I agreed with the lady until she complained of the price discrimination. But she is definitely not correct in expecting an equal treatment in religious places. "When you are in foreign land you are the foreigner". She wants to compare situations in Australia to those in Nepal

Vhotee

I don't disagree with your point, this IS the time to openly discuss it. But reputation is also a fragile thing. Egypt and few other countries have garnered very negative reputation these days, but they can handle it. Our country is very dependent upon tourism and our image outside (think of remittance money). If a legit concern is raised then we should cater to it, but we also shouldn't let anybody's imagination run havoc and start calling our country not what it stands for.

There are changes needed, we should discuss them and advocate for it. Discrimination in any sense should not be tolerated, whether towards us or towards foreigners. But don't also bash my country for a select few incidences.

Kiddo,

Vhotee
You are using the words "uptight" and "insecure" too loosely, maybe they apply to you more?

I am not saying YES and NO at the same time, read what I wrote again. Point I am making is while she has raised some important issues, her bigger point bashes Nepal and that's unwarranted. Issues are everywhere, we aren't saying we don't have one. We accept that those are problems and we have to work towards resolving them; but don't paint the picture as if that's all we have to offer. If a foreigner (intended audience, mind you) reads this article what kind of image would they have about Nepal? You don't have to accept every charges thrown against you even if few of them are valid, that's not saying YES and NO at the both time.

You talk about tourist extortion, go visit Egypt or Delhi once and you will know what extortion is. I didn't say we are holier-than-thou but we aren't the bottom of the barrels that this post paints us to be. We have many things to improve but we still have tonnes of things to offer. Just because you are frustrated with Nepal and Nepali, don't go out venting your frustration agreeing everything anybody with 0 history about Nepal tells you.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NtobzP-fTzA/UTYaIlOLQfI/AAAAAAAAAls/5Ng51wofI8w/s1600/2013-03-02+16.38.07.jpg

 Cheap sss aussie biatch, definitely tourists should be charged xtra. They come from privilege country.

Kiddo,

 Mampakha guuuvotee

I agree with R Shrestha, Western countries charge fees three times higher to international students than to their own citizens. Where is outrage? Its sad we still don't allow other religion to enter our temples while all churches have very welcoming environment. I volunteer in couple of local churches and I am not judged by religion.